Getting there

We recommend a three day visit to Tripoli which will give you enough time to appreciate both the older inner city and the Mina (port) area and its labyrinth of streets. Lebanon currently only has one functioning, international airport in Beirut and your journey will therefore start in Beirut. Spend a night in Beirut to give you time to recharge from the flight and fully appreciate the difference between the two cities. The journey to Tripoli will take you along the coastal highway and is approximately 80km with travel time varying depending on traffic.

We recommend two options to get to Tripoli along the coastal highway from Beirut:

  1. Arrange a pre-paid taxi. At your hotel/hostel ask for a trusted taxi company and agree a set price to take you to Tripoli. Hotel staff will always have a contact of a trusted taxi company able to take you to Tripoli given the short distance from Beirut and are normally more than happy to help you order a taxi. Make sure you agree a set price to avoid any awkwardness/language barriers at the end. Prices can be hard to deduce given inflation but a private taxi ride to Tripoli should generally cost no more than 50 dollars.  Try and barter for a decent taxi price and if you really want to economise, ask around at the hotel/hostel if anyone else is travelling to Tripoli to split the ride.
  2. Hop on one of the many mini buses going to Tripoli. Given the non-existence of public transport, cheap, often very decrepit mini buses ferry the majority of Lebanese around the country. Taking mini buses can be great fun and above all is a lot cheaper than a taxi, with a ride to Tripoli costing no more than 4 US dollars (everywhere in Lebanon accepts the Lebanese Lira and US dollar). In order to get a bus going to Tripoli, start your journey at Cola bus station just north of Beirut and simply shout ‘Tarablus’ (Arabic for Tripoli). The buses will stop several times along the way to pick up and drop off people. You will be either dropped off at the main roundabout into Tripoli featuring a big Arabic inscription for Allah or in the centre of the city. The journey can often be cramped and you might want to check with fellow passengers you are indeed going to Tarabulus (some buses veer off to destinations in the mountains) but hey, for a two hour journey (traffic dependent) filled with Lebanese banter costing less than a coffee, we recommend taking the bus. From there, take a two dollar taxi ride to wherever you want to go. English and French are not as well spoken as in Beirut so learning some general Arabic place names will be handy. Having said this, Tripoleans are friendly and generally love showing off their city and are happy to help beleaguered travellers.
               

Accomodation

Tripoli has several totally unique and enticing accommodation options suitable for all travel budgets. Recently, several hotels in traditional Tripolean buildings have opened both in the port area and centre that allow you to immerse yourself in Tripolean culture and enjoy modern amenities. Our top picks are:

  1. Via Mina Hotel: Located in a restored house in the Mina area 2 minutes walk from the Corniche, Via Mina combines old world style with a distinctly outward, mediterranean feel. Rooms are well equipped and elegant. Having a drink in the restored bar area or on the front terrace is a real highlight. A perfect location to explore the Mina bars at night.
  2. Azur suites Hotel and Apartments: Located in port area of the city in a beautiful, traditional Lebanese house, the hotel sits amongst the bustle of the port area with many amenities nearby. Highlights include the terrace to eat breakfast on in the morning and the many cats in the area.
  3. St Francis Monastery: the most unique sleeping experience Tripoli has to offer. For a small fee (18 dollars at the time of writing) you can stay in the spare rooms of St Francis monastery in the port area of the city. Simply turn up (as I did) and request a room for the night. The Italian monk will ask you how found out about the monastery. Be aware, there is a curfew when the doors are locked so this is not the place if you want to explore the city late at night. Bring water and snacks with you to place in the communal kitchen at night.

Eating and Drinking

Tripoli is, in the eyes of the writer, home to the best food in Lebanon. Tripolean gastronomy combines the flavours of northern Lebanon, a heavy seafood influence and last but not least, the city’s famous desserts.  A visit to Tripoli is not complete without trying:

  1. Tripoli sweets. Many Lebanese are willing to make the journey to Tripoli just for its mouthwatering and creative sweets. Tripoli as the centre of sweet production owes to its history of growing sugar canes in the fertile land surrounding the city. Al Hallab sweets is renowned in Lebanon for its baklava, less sickly sweet than the Turkish version, and unique creations featuring candied fruits, creams and syrup. Simply say Al Hallab to any Tripolean and they will point you in the right direction.
  2. Samkeh Harra: meaning ‘spicy fish’ in Arabic, this dish is not actually chilli spicy at all. Instead, it is a unique mix of white fish, tahini, lemon and pine nuts mixed with Lebanese spices. Several shops along the corniche sell this delicacy generously scooped into Lebanese flatbread. If you’re a fish lover, this is the dish for you.
  3. Moghrabieh sandwich. A dish unique to Tripoli. Little balls of dough alongside chickpeas are cooked in butter and spices and served in a wrap with a few brightly coloured pickles. This delicacy is best sampled in the old soul area of Tripoli.
  4. Jezerieh. This sweet treat deserves a mention just for the adventure of finding this shop. Jezerieh (I’m assuming from the Arabic for carrot, jezr) is a candied fruit dessert made from carrot or pumpkin. There is one shop selling this delicacy up a cobbled stairway from the central souq. No pictures allowed in the shop.